Tailing redfish are the ultimate shallow-water challenge. When a redfish tail breaks the surface, you’re seeing a fish that’s actively feeding in shallow water — close enough to spook, but committed enough to eat if you deliver the right cast. This guide explains what “tailing” really means, why redfish do it, and step-by-step spinning-tackle techniques to hook up without blowing the shot.
What Is a Tailing Redfish?
“Tailing” describes a redfish feeding with its head down and tail up in very shallow water. As it noses into the bottom for crabs, shrimp, and worms, the tail tips up towards the surface. Depending on the size of the fish, the depth of the water and the angle of the fish, the tail may or may not break the surface. Any redfish with its nose down in the mud or grass and tail towards the surface we refer to as "tailing". The more calm the water, the farther sway you can see the tails when they do pop up. Sometimes you see just a tiny tip of the tail. Other times, the fish may do a complete headstand and even flip over as they try to root out their prey. Tailing is easiest to encounter on calm mornings, low light afternoons, and especially around lower water when forage concentrates on flats, potholes, and marsh edges. While redfish will still tail in high winds and choppy water, it is a less common occurrence and harder to spot.
Why Do Redfish Tail?
- Feeding posture: Redfish often target food that lives on or near the bottom . They must tip to reach prey, exposing the tail.
- Soft bottom + crustaceans: Mud and grass flats hold crabs and shrimp; reds root into holes and grass clumps to flush them.
- Low water: Falling tides or seasonal low water force bait shallow, creating predictable “tailing zones.”
- Low wind: Slick conditions reveal subtle tails and dimples that are otherwise hidden by chop.
Choosing your spinning tackle setup
- Know your targets: If you expect to target fish over 15 pounds beef up your tackle
- Rod: 7’–7’6” medium-light to medium power, fast action for accurate, quiet presentations at 5–50 feet.
- Reel: 2500–3000 size with a smooth drag for light leaders and steady pressure.
- Main line: 5–15 lb braid (thin diameter,better casting, less water drag, better feel).
- Leader: 15–20 lb fluorocarbon or mono, 24–36 inches. Go lighter/longer in slick water, heavier around oysters or mangroves.
- Knots: Uni-to-uni or Improved Alberto line to leader; canoeman loop knot to the lure for ease of tying and better action.
Best Lures for Tailing Reds
At the many seminars I have done on fishing for redfish over the years, one of the most common questions is "what is the best lure for redfish." My answer is always the same, the best lure is the one that you put in front of the fish and convince them to eat it. Every angler has their favorite style, brand, color, etc. After 30+ years of targeting tailing redfish, these are my personal favorites
- Weedless shrimp/crab plastics: 3–" DOA shrimp. The original soft plastic shrimp will catch anything that eats shrimp and they redfish love it. lands soft and matches their prey
- Light jig + shad tail: 1/16–1/8 oz with a DOA CAL paddle tail shad. I prefer natural colors like green, olive, brown, white,gold
- Weedless rigged soft plastic jerkbait: a 4 or 5" jerk worm rigged on a weighted, weedless worm hook. This setup is best if you have trouble keeping the open hook lures from catching grass. Small twitches avoid spooking the fish.
Approach and presentation: Stealth, Speed, Accuracy
On my Mosquito Lagoon redfish charters, I have watched thousands of fish get spooked before the angler was ever in range. If you are not quiet enough you will never get a shot. Not fast enough they will be gone before you cast. Not accurate enough they may never see you offering.
- Stop early: Kill the motor or drift/pole from long range. Footfalls, hatch slams, and deck noise carry far in shallow water.
- Sun & wind angle: Keep the sun behind or off your casting shoulder for visibility; approach with wind helping your cast.
- Don't wait till it's too late: once the fish is in range and you can make an accurate shot, get casting.
- Inches Matter When redfish have their head buried in the grass focused on a crab or shrimp, you offering must be in the same zone. A few inches off the mark and it never gets seen.
Watch the video below for live action tailing redfish tips
Presentation Blueprint
- Don't land on their head: Cast 5-10 feet beyond the tail and keep the lure on the surface till you watch it drop in front of the fish. The fish know their food does not fall out of the sky on top of them.
- Keep you lure in sight till the last second After splashdown do not let it drop out of your sight. If you do, you will be guessing when it is exactly on target.
- Small movements work best: Slow crawl for crab/shrimp; a subtle hop for plastics. Huge sudden movements will spook fish more times than not.
- Strike: When the line tightens or you feel the “thunk,” reel down and then set the hook. Crank first, then yank.
Where and When to Hunt Tails
- Edges & potholes: Shallow grass flats, oyster edges, and creek mouths at lower water.
- Watch for diving terns As the redfish scare shrimp out of the water, the terns will dive down and get them.
- Timing: Calm mornings/evenings. On windier days, find leeward shorelines when it is windy.
- Schools vs Singles You may find a single tailing redfish that requires pinpoint accuracy or schools the size of a two car garage. Be ready for any sized group.
Common Mistakes (and Fixes)
- Landing on the fish: Never make your cast until you are certain you can reach 5-10ft past the fish you see. Keep you line off the water to avoid touching them with it before your lure arrives on target.
- Too much splash: Downsize lures/weights and close the bail before the lure hits to feather the entry with your finger.
- Grass fouling: Keep open hook lures on the surface till right above the target. If that's not working, rig weedless.
- Overworking the lure: Tailing reds are already feeding — a subtle crawl beats a frantic twitch 9 times out of 10.
Simple Tailing Redfish Rigs (Spinning)
Ultra-Skinny Stealth: 1/0 EWG screw-lock, unweighted; 3–4" shrimp/crab plastic; 12–15 lb fluoro leader. Cast close, dead-stick, then micro-twitch into view.
Grass Pothole Crawler: 1/16 oz weedless belly-weighted hook with paddle tail; 15–20 lb leader. Slow crawl with brief pauses across potholes.
Spoon Slider: 1/4 oz weedless gold spoon; 15–20 lb leader. Long cast across the fish’s path; slow, steady retrieve just above grass tips.
Final Thoughts
This is some of the most exciting fish you can do and you always are certain your targets are actively feeding. Tailing redfish are telling you exactly where and how they’re feeding — you just have to deliver quietly, lead the fish, and move the lure like real food. With a medium-light to medium spinning outfit, light braid, and stealthy weedless presentations, you can turn subtle tails and mud puffs into confident bites. Keep your approach quiet, your casts low, and your retrieves patient. Do that consistently and you’ll turn tailers into grip-and-grin photos, one calm flat at a time.Some of the best tailing redfish action in Florida can be found in the Mosquito Lagoon one hour east of Orlando between Cocoa Beach and New Smyrna Beach.